Visoko, Bosnia + My Halloween Abroad

In the Bosnian Pyramids

Day 90. About an hour from Sarajevo is a town named Visoko, known for its mystical pyramids and tunnels. With a girl from my hostel (hi Bryony!) we packed our bag for the day and decided to check it out. It’s a really small town, yet it wasn’t exactly clear how to get to Ravne Labyrinth (tunnels) or the pyramids. One thing was sure, every time we asked around, people made a point of reminding us how amazing it would be to feel all the energy.

We grew more curious as we went. Contrary to what we’d been told before our arrival, it wasn’t possible to do the tunnels and the pyramids in one day, not if we walked. So we shared a cab with another traveller and asked to make a stop at a supermarket to get some provisions. The “supermarket” was like a Walmart without the food department. All I could find were cookies, but that had to do, because we had told the driver we would be back in two. On our way out, the taxi was gone.

Ah. Ah. Ah.
(It wasn’t funny at that moment.)

We wandered around and got lost a little, but fortunately the tunnels weren’t too far. Then we were told to wait for our guide, who was sitting at a table right in front of us, laughing his head off with his colleagues. (Get used to the Bosnian way—no one is in a hurry.)

Ravne Labyrinth

Twenty minutes later, we entered the tunnels. I’m rather skeptical, but I have to say, I did feel some kind of energy in there, especially in the Healing Chamber, which could apparently heal anything if you spend a certain amount of time in it. They think the tunnels were built from the same mysterious civilization that would’ve built the Bosnian pyramids, and are working on re-excavating the paths to the Pyramid of Sun. I don’t know if I believe in all this, but the whole tour was still really great.

Healing Chamber

And then we had the bumpiest taxi ride ever to go the Pyramid of Sun, because the driver decided to take a “short cut” through the forest, which was kind of creepy for the whole twenty minutes it lasted, mainly because the driver spoke zero English.

“Are you sure that’s the right direction?”
“Pyramid, yes, yes.”
“The map says we should be going the other way.”
“Pyramid, yes, yes.”
“See where I’m pointing on the map? Why don’t we use that road instead?”
“Yes, pyramid, yes. Yes.”
“I still don’t get why we need to go through that forest.”

And then the inevitable happened. He stopped talking entirely, adding an extra layer of creepy to the circumstances, but maybe it was all in my head. Maybe it was just because it was the day before Halloween and I was in a town where everyone kept asking me if I could feel the energy.

On the top of the Pyramid of Sun

We did make it to the Pyramid of Sun, fortunately, and the view was amazing. From up there we could really see the pointy summits of the other pyramids around, covered with grass. We looked for about thirty minutes for the way down, but had to eventually give up and borrow the road instead, which reminded me of my adventures in Annecy, and I smiled even though I should have been stressing out about missing the last bus back to Sarajevo or eventually run out of cookies. We made it back all right.

View of the Bosnian Pyramids
The way down

The next day was Halloween, and I spent it in a mini-cab with other travellers to go to Belgrade, from where I would take a night train to Budapest. It was probably the longest way there, but most importantly the cheapest. I didn’t mind; the Bosnian lifestyle was growing in me and I was in no hurry. Then all the cars had to stop in the middle of nowhere because a landmine had been found not so far, and we had to wait that the road was secured. Happy Halloween. It took thirty minutes of mixed emotions: half of me was scared to death to explode any second, the other half was dying to see an actual explosion. Nothing exploded in the end, but I still felt pretty alive.

At last, there was my night train to Budapest. It took me forever to find the platform. It was hidden at the end of the station, all dark and abandoned. It really felt like Halloween.

Belgrade’s train station

We made about 100 stops during the night. Each time officers came in and asked to see our passports, and I kept thinking that there was a fugitive in the train, and that I would see an explosion after all. I must’ve slept forty minutes max. Regular Halloween night abroad.

Fail count: 11
Total: 116

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